Tuesday, June 29, 2010

June Daring Bakers: Pavlovas with Chocolate Mascarpone Mousse


Yeah. I forgot to take a final picture until I was almost finished eating. Again. You get the idea-
Delicious, messy, gooey, deliciousness so good, you can't even wait to put it on a plate.



The June 2010 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Dawn of Doable and Delicious. Dawn challenged the Daring Bakers’ to make Chocolate Pavlovas and Chocolate Mascarpone Mousse. The challenge recipe is based on a recipe from the book Chocolate Epiphany by Francois Payard.

I'm not one of those picky eaters who restricts themselves to the baked chicken on the menu and breaks into a sweat at the thought of sushi or curry. But I do have a weirdness about chocolate. Don't get me wrong, there are times when nothing will do but a good chocolate bar; but I've never been one for desserts that have "chocolate" mentioned more than once in the title or heavily chocolate things like flourless chocolate cake and chocolate ganache fillings. There has to be a balance. I want a glass of milk just thinking about it. Another thing that makes me nervous are meringues. I've never met a meringue I like. They always have this weird sort of fake flavor and a chalky texture and do nothing to make you feel satisfied for giving yourself that crazy insulin spike. So the idea of making a giant chocolate meringue with chocolate mousse made think twice about the challenge. But two things made me stick with it:

1. Upon doing some research pavlovas a whole 'nother animal from meringues. While they are the same ingredients and set up, the pavlova is bigger and thicker; it's not as cooked through, giving you a delicate sort of crust filled with sugary marshmallowy goodness.
2. I could omit the chocolate from pavlova part.


Want to work those biceps? Make a pavlova! And then ruin it all by eating said pavlova.

And on the most humid day of this summer so far, I decided to give it a try. The pavlova itself turned out beautifully. The creme anglaise was so good, I could eat it with a spoon by itself like soup. And there was enough of it to do so. The mousse was... alright. Still a little too chocolatey and acidic for my tastes and I had to scale way back on it to keep some sort of sweet/rich balance. Maybe it would have gone better with a lighter chocolate? I'm tempted to try this again but with a Strawberry coulis or some sort of fruit sauce with the same creme anglaise.

My partner in destroying this dessert was my boyfriend, again. He pretty much ate the whole thing in the time it took for me to put away the mixer. I guess he liked it.
The recipe is below and my tweaks are in italics. There was a whole ton of creme anglaise left over from this. If you're more proficient in math than I, you might want to cut it down. If you're not and you're still on a meringue high, try making Floating Islands- the Ina Garten way or the Julia Child/Wolfgang Puck way if you're feeling sassy.

Recipe 1: Chocolate Meringue (for the chocolate Pavlova):
3 large egg whites
½ cup plus 1 tbsp (110 grams) white granulated sugar
¼ cup (30 grams) confectioner’s (icing) sugar
1/3 cup (30 grams) Dutch processed cocoa powder
I omitted the cocoa and doubled the sugar and added an egg white

Directions:
1. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200º F (95º C) degrees. Line two baking sheets with silpat or parchment and set aside.
2. Put the egg whites in a bowl and whip until soft peaks form. Increase speed to high and gradually add granulated sugar about 1 tbsp at a time until stiff peaks form. (The whites should be firm but moist.)
3. Sift the confectioner’s sugar and cocoa powder over the egg whites and fold the dry ingredients into the white. (This looks like it will not happen. Fold gently and it will eventually come together.)
4. Fill a pastry bag with the meringue. Pipe the meringue into whatever shapes you desire. Alternatively, you could just free form your shapes and level them a bit with the back of a spoon. (Class made rounds, hearts, diamonds and an attempt at a clover was made!)
5. Bake for 2-3 hours until the meringues become dry and crisp. Cool and store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
I made one giant pavlova to capitalize on the marshmallow insides. Also, a tip I found on the internet- Let the pavlova cool in the oven. Turn the heat off and crack open the door. This will keep the pavlova from cracking or collapsing.

Recipe 2: Chocolate Mascarpone Mousse (for the top of the Pavlova base):
1 ½ cups (355 mls) heavy cream (cream with a milk fat content of between 36 and 40 percent)
grated zest of 1 average sized lemon
9 ounces (255 grams) 72% chocolate, chopped
1 2/3 cups (390 mls) mascarpone
pinch of nutmeg
2 tbsp (30 mls) Grand Marnier (or orange juice)

Directions:
1.Put ½ cup (120 mls) of the heavy cream and the lemon zest in a saucepan over medium high heat. Once warm, add the chocolate and whisk until melted and smooth. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let sit at room temperature until cool.
2. Place the mascarpone, the remaining cup of cream and nutmeg in a bowl. Whip on low for a minute until the mascarpone is loose. Add the Grand Marnier and whip on medium speed until it holds soft peaks. (DO NOT OVERBEAT AS THE MASCARPONE WILL BREAK.)
3. Mix about ¼ of the mascarpone mixture into the chocolate to lighten. Fold in the remaining mascarpone until well incorporated. Fill a pastry bag with the mousse. Again, you could just free form mousse on top of the pavlova.

Recipe 3: Mascarpone Cream (for drizzling):
1 recipe crème anglaise
½ cup (120 mls) mascarpone
2 tbsp (30 mls) Sambucca (optional)
½ cup (120 mls) heavy cream

Directions:
1. Prepare the crème anglaise. Slowly whisk in the mascarpone and the Sambucca and let the mixture cool. Put the cream in a bowl and beat with electric mixer until very soft peaks are formed. Fold the cream into the mascarpone mixture.

Recipe 4: Crème Anglaise (a component of the Mascarpone Cream above):
1 cup (235 mls) whole milk
1 cup (235 mls) heavy cream
1 vanilla bean, split or 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
6 large egg yolks
6 tbsp (75 grams) sugar

Directions:
1. In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until the mixture turns pale yellow.
2. Combine the milk, cream and vanilla in a saucepan over medium high heat, bringing the mixture to a boil. Take off the heat. .
3. Pour about ½ cup of the hot liquid into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly to keep from making scrambled eggs. Pour the yolk mixture into the pan with the remaining cream mixture and put the heat back on medium. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens enough to lightly coat the back of a wooden spoon. DO NOT OVERCOOK.
4. Remove the mixture from the heat and strain it through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Cover and refrigerate until the mixture is thoroughly chilled, about 2 hours or overnight.

Assembly:
Pipe the mousse onto the pavlovas and drizzle with the mascarpone cream over the top. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and fresh fruit if desired.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Daring Cooks June: Pâté and Bread




My photography skills are slowly starting to get better, but I need to learn to actually remember to take pictures of the food once it's done as opposed to pics of half eaten food with debris like the lighter for the pilot light and and note taking pen in the picture.. And maybe make sure to give hungry boyfriends a snack so they can wait half a second while I take the picture. When things settle a little bit for me, I think I'll look into a photography class at the local community college. Photography is one of those things I've always wanted to be good at, but didn't quite know how.

Anyway, our hostesses this month, Evelyne of Cheap Ethnic Eatz, and Valerie of a The Chocolate Bunny, chose delicious pate with freshly baked bread as their June Daring Cook’s challenge! They’ve provided us with 4 different pate recipes to choose from and are allowing us to go wild with our homemade bread choice.


Usually when I think of pâté, I think of pasty looking things made from parts of the animal that people usually don't like to eat without masking with other, more delicious, flavors. It is for this reason never tried it. This time, feeling I've already met my quota of cooking with icky things (also combined with a severely thin wallet this month) I have forgone cooking with parts of the animal I'd rather leave on the butcher table and went with a Trout and Shrimp Pâté. I didn't have any trout on hand, so I went with salmon. This was unbelievably easy to make. And it was so so good.



For the bread, I went with the classic No Knead Bread recipe from the NY Times. It was the first time I've ever made yeasted bread from scratch and wanted to ease myself into it. This was also so easy and delicious that I honestly don't feel the need to go bigger.

Two regrets- The recipe didn't really call for any spices or herbs other than the usual salt and pepper. I want to make this again, but punch it up with some dill or Old Bay. The other is that I used the jumbo shrimp on hand and didn't think to chop them up a little. Oh well. This is definitely a great idea for a party or just something to have on hand for a quick protein fix with your salad.

Trout (or Salmon) and Shrimp Pâté
Yields one 6x3 inch (15x7,5 cm) terrine or loaf pan

1 tbsp / 15 ml butter
1/4 lb / 4 oz / 120g medium raw shrimp, deveined, shelled and tailed (about 12 medium shrimp)
1/8 cup / 30ml Grand Marnier (or cognac, or another strong liqueur of your choice) (optional- I omitted this since I didn't have any on hand.)
1/2 lb / 8 oz / 240g trout filet, skinned and cut into thick chunks
1/4 lb / 4 oz / 110g raw shrimp, deveined, shelled and tailed (any size)
3/4 cup / 180ml heavy cream
Salt, to taste
Green peppercorn, coarsely ground, to taste
Chives, for garnish

Preheat oven to 375ºF (190ºC).

In a heavy, flameproof frying pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Sauté the 1/4 pound of medium shrimp, stirring often, until pink and cooked through. Remove the pan from heat. (NOTE: These shrimp will be used to form layers within your pâté. If you feel they are too thick – like the ones in the photograph, you might want to slice them in half lengthwise.)

Pour the Grand Marnier over the cooked shrimp. Light a match and carefully ignite the alcohol, to flambé the shrimp. Wait for the flames to go out on their own, carefully tilting the pan to ensure even flavoring. Set aside.

Put the trout and the remaining raw shrimp in a food processor and pulse. Gradually pour in the cream and keep pulsing until you obtain a smooth mixture that is easy to spread, but not too liquid (you may not need to use all the cream). Season with salt and green pepper.

Butter a 6x3 inch (15x7,5 cm) loaf pan or terrine, then line it with parchment paper. Spoon in half the trout mixture, and spread it evenly. Place the flambéed shrimp on top, in an even layer, reserving 3 or 4 shrimp for decorating. Top with the remaining trout mixture.

Prepare a water bath: place the loaf pan in a larger, deep ovenproof dish (such as a brownie pan or a baking dish). Bring some water to a simmer and carefully pour it in the larger dish. The water should reach approximately halfway up the loaf pan.

Put the water bath and terrine in the oven, and bake for 35 minutes. The pâté should be cooked through and firm in the center.

Remove the pan from the water bath and let cool. Carefully unmold onto a serving platter. Decorate with the reserved shrimp, and sprinkle with chopped chives. Cut into thick slices and serve at room temperature, with crusty bread.

No-Knead Bread
Adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery
Taken from NY Times

Time: About 1½ hours plus 14 to 20 hours’ rising

3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, more for dusting
¼ teaspoon instant yeast
1¼ teaspoons salt
Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed.

1. In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 5/8 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.

2. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.

3. Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.

4. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack.

Yield: One 1½-pound loaf.